Відео

Top irmão parabéns

Is a .750 stainless stock too small to make one for a 5.56? It would leave bout a quarter inch wall if Im correct

great video/ does anyone make barrel blocks for sale/ would hard wood work/ you used oil and brush would white lithium grease work better than the oil/ any information would be appreciated thank you

I know this is old but what lathe is that? Thanks

Soooooo booooooooring

Easily as professional as at my job

Kennametal?

Confused. What is that device you built? A muzzle brake is to reduce recoil by directing gases rearward at an angle pushing the rifle forward to oppose the rearward recoil. It only has angled ports on each side and none on top or bottom. Not sure what your build is supposed to do.

What kind of gun is this for if you don't mind me asking ? That's great work but woooh it's huge ! It looks like something you would use for testing not exactly something you would want to be carrying around.

Great work SKI !!! You family should be very proud of you. Keep up your family and your machining .... (when you get the time!)

One question, how much does the envelope have for a short gun, I mean turn by length, and how many stretch marks?

love ur vids. keep on posting

Dude you may joke about this my son started off in crayon, but ended up a degreed engineer.

Do a video on building a Suppressor, We are a FREE PEOPLE we DO NOT have to have another HUMANS SPECIAL PERMISSION, or pay money to for a little PERMISSION SLIP. TO OWN ANYTHING or make ANYTHING PERIOD.

ua-cam.com/channels/VechYyvzioEwZcW5iNMEBQ.html

????????????

Just found your video, great job! How do you finish the front of your breaks?

Question sir - i have a WW 11 Japanese rifle - an uncle brought 2 home 1 for him & 1 for my dad. A man was to re-bore for ammo USA type, he messed the barrel up. Should I try to have it re-bored again are change barrel's ?

*these are great fly just like my target tips>>>**allabout.wiki/irm9** Both the practice and the swhacker broad head weight the same so they are a great match .There so good with my crossbow I am shooting them at 10,20,30,40,50,60,70,80, right now.*

“8”9

what a technology is

Been trying to find this answer for a while. Can anyone tell the specific name of the tool that is used to cut vents in an A2 Birdcage? Tapered milling saw doesn't get me any results.

Hi can you tell me the amount of clearance between the ID of the brake and the OD of the Bullet? Thanks for the Video great skills you have!!

Nice work sir

Man, that is a thing of beauty.....

What rotary table are you using? I like the automatic stops, makes things much easier.

Anyone have a homemade 9mm barrel they will sell and post to me

Great job Sir!

I hope you're doing okay we haven't seen some videos God bless

I hope oneday you Will make a barrel for me regards

Pac nars customer service sucks!

The King..... i’m a Mechanic guy... lol... i cut brake... but i tell you it’s nothing like this... you guys is amazing.... Amazing work.... i love it... i really really enjoy watching that machine cut off that barrel... i love that ... i really really enjoy it guy.... i can spent all my my free time watching video like this... i just love that machine... thank you guy....

My friend has a $3000.00 308 rifle with a factory muzzle brake, mostly cosmetics. when I fired it, the blow back was like someone boxed both of my ears. That was from the first shot. And I had ear plugs on too. So I machined the muzzle break into a thread protector, now all the blast is forward and the rifle shot a whole lot more accurately. No blow back.

does a muzzle break really have to seem so complex. It's like reloading, the muzzle break needs to be custom for the specific caliber. Factory loads, custom loads, and how the rifle torque. Up, down, left or right. And of course, gas pressures, and no blow back from muzzle to shooter. So a few need to be made and tested until the rifle shoots accurate, reduced recoil, and definitely no blow back.

I believe he made this barrel block for one of these types of guns. ua-cam.com/video/6qatf5g7lzk/v-deo.html

muy buen trabajo!!!!!! felicitaciones

That major undercut at the "front" of the barrel thread cut to get rid of a minor "fillet" the recoil lug should have been chamfered to clear is scary as hell. Ever heard of stress risers and how they are set up and cause fractures at sharp edges when an undercut "shaft" is subjected to bending stresses? They're why you never see bearing retention snap rings except outside a bearing and only on shafts where there is no pulley or other bending load outboard of the groove. Where those exist a lock collar is used to keep the shaft from slidding/spinning in the bearing. I can see that barrel snapping right there in that groove someday. And aren't the recoil lug flats supposed to line up with the receiver flats for a "seamless" assembly with the barrel tight? There's no way you got it tightened another 1/8 of a turn or more torquing the barrel into the receiver to get everything lined up. At least not without stressing that undercut barrel and groove a hell of a lot more than they already were. All the way around a pretty scary and "ugly" build to this point. I know lots of machinists and no "gunsmiths" personally even though it seems like everybody who has and can turn on a freaking lathe and can make a UA-cam video is a "gunsmith" or "rifle builder" these days. With predictable results. Looks really easy on paper but oddly enough threads have to start and stop at specific points in many "builds" to get all the parts "clocked" correctly, don't they? But its kind of hard to cut those kinds of threads and get them to start and stop where they have to when you're just kicking the lathe on at 500 rpm and letting the compound "do the work". I suppose its just a matter of taking "a few more thou" off the rear barrel "seating surface" to get another turn or whatever you need to get things lined up properly. But then you have to take more off the back of the "chamber" and if you don't get it right in one or two tries, the next thing you know you're back to cutting more threads. You mentioned "advancing the threads" but with the receiver and recoil lug already tight against the barrel more threads aren't going to gain you anything. You have to create clearance somewhere to get the receiver and recoil lug aligned when they're tight against the barrel. Either by removing some material from the face of the receiver or the recoil lug or the rear of the barrel where the recoil lug sits. And if that's an Armalite AR-30 receiver which is must be since its obviously not an AR-50, are you sure its up to the challenge of dealing with .375 CheyTac pressures and loads? More "scary" to think about there. Looks like a "cheap" way to build a "big "rifle and "cheap" shouldn't be combined with "build" of ANY rifle much less a "big" one. Hopefully Armalite's lawyers will find this video if there's ever an "issue" with that "build" and somebody decides to pin the blame for the "issue" on Armalite. Not that Armalite would/will need to prove it didn't "build" the rifle with "issues". In its manufacturing/transfer records whatever serial number is on that receiver sure as hell isn't going to match a .375 CheyTac and "truing" the receiver just put the proof of "modifications" right there in the threads. And is it just me or do those barrel threads "taper" from "larger" to "smaller" as the get further onto the barrel blank? Almost looks like a reversed pipe taper thread and the receiver seems to get "looser" the further on you thread it. Maybe those are "optical illusions".

I thought you said you were going to add a picture of the other gun he made with your other barrel block at the end?

Any issues using twist drills without continuous coolant in aluminum like that? And with a "perfect fit" over the barrel as you said at 5:41, why would you go bigger with the bore? Kinda makes it impossible to end up with a concentric bore when clamped on the barrel, doesn't it? Slotting and clamping that barrel block vs. just installing it with set screws to prevent movement of the block on the barrel the way AR gas blocks are fitted seems kind of counter-intuitive. Especially since a tight, clamped fit would make it hard for the barrel to expand when hot. Looks like one hell of thick and heavy chunk of aluminum to get "compressed" with the clamp screws, too. What is the purpose of a "barrel block" anyway?

The diameter difference between lands and grooves is under .0001"? How did that .408 CheyTac in an AR-30 receiver project work out?

.408 Chey-Tac with a COL in excess of 4.5" will fit in an AR-30 receiver/magazine lengthwise? That's about 7/8" longer than .338 Lapua. How you pulling that off? Got a pretty significant case diameter difference to deal with too. AR-50s are available in .416 Barrett for the same money ($3300ish MSRP) as an AR-50 in .50 BMG. How does building a custom "AR-30" in .408 CheyTac pencil out compared to buying an off-the-shelf AR-50 chambered for a much better cartridge based on a much better "parent case"?

Looks like it grew there man.....Just like it grew there.

|

Not the way I would do it. My main concern would be re-indexing the brake on the outside of the barrel. You are changing pressures by varying depth of the ports from one side to the other. It's easy enough to blend the brake into the barrel especially if you were only a couple thou out. I've also lost CHUNKS of skin running my finger on running parts!

Amazing work you do

You could use a key seat cutter for those ports, I think that's the way to go so you don't have such small end-mills that like to break off. even more helpful if it's a small brake.

Great Work!

coooooooooooool work do you do full gun with details I mean how can I make a gun from no think starting from body ending to parts even small parts ???

Looks great!

For safety reasons you should always have your sand paper or Emory cloth on the opposite side of you pulling toward you. So if it breaks you will go back away from the chuck.